- Words by Joanne Peters Photography by Lia Crowe
A menu that travels from ocean depths to open pastures, natural light pouring through floor-to-high-ceiling windows, glam forest-green and matte-gold accents, and all kinds of plants鈥攖all, hanging, climbing, and lush. Across from Canada Place is one of the most exciting restaurants to open in Vancouver this year.
Even if you don鈥檛 know the Glowbal Restaurant Group by name, chances are you鈥檝e dined at one of its hot spots: Glowbal, Trattoria, Coast, Black+Blue, or Italian Kitchen, to name a few. Now, the group founded by Egyptian-born restaurateur Emad Yacoub is adding to its portfolio, and it鈥檚 the jewel in the crown.
The restaurant takes its name from Sean Riley, Emad鈥檚 very first employee and executive chef, who used to work for him in Toronto and who rode his motorcycle across the country to help him open Glowbal over two decades ago. He remains an integral part of the company, where Top Chef Canada Season 7 competitor Dennis Peckham is GRG corporate chef.
Occupying and expanding the former home of Tourism Vancouver right near the cruise ship terminal, the 240-seat room, with a wine wall and bar facing the water, marries Coast鈥檚 focus on fresh fish and seafood from eastern and western waters (think everything from PEI pink moon oysters and Atlantic lobster to Haida Gwaii halibut and Qualicum Bay scallops) with Black+Blue鈥檚 expertise in Canadian and US prime beef.
Heading the kitchen is executive chef J茅r么me Soubeyrand. Born and raised in Lyon, France, he brings years of experience in some of Europe鈥檚 best restaurants, eight of them Michelin-starred, to Vancouver, having previously held roles here at both Coast and Black & Blue.
He has worked alongside culinary authorities such as Paul Bocuse (who founded one of the world鈥檚 most rigorous international cooking competitions) and Daniel Boulud (a fellow Lyonnais native who has dining establishments in New York City, Dubai and beyond). Also among his colleagues is another Michelin-ranked chef, Jo毛l Robuchon, who is credited for creating the best mashed potatoes in the world鈥攁nd at Riley鈥檚 you can taste J茅r么me鈥檚 take on the famous dish. Ask him how much butter is in it. Or better yet, don鈥檛.
While Riley鈥檚 isn鈥檛 a French restaurant, there鈥檚 evidence of J茅r么me鈥檚 classical training and technique all across the menu. Consider the shaved foie gras and red-wine jus that accompany steak and frites, the pillowy-soft indulgence of house-baked brioche (with garlic, Gruy猫re, whipped butter, smoked Maldon salt and lobster oil), the velvety tarragon-infused B茅arnaise sauce as an option to go with char-grilled prime cuts; and lobster Thermidor, the toothsome meat cooked in a decadent wine sauce before being stuffed back into the shell and browned. Then there is J茅r么me鈥檚 coq au vin. The elevated comfort dish of red-wine-braised chicken pieces with glistening pearl onions, densely flavourful forest mushrooms and thick strips of cured pork belly is especially close to the chef鈥檚 heart.
鈥淚 started cooking with my mother every Sunday for the family at a young age, which kickstarted my love for food,鈥� J茅r么me says. 鈥淭he coq au vin reminds me of home and the meals that my mom would cook for my father. Where I grew up near Lyon there were a number of wineries, so coq au vin was a staple in our household.鈥�
Other menu items that J茅r么me is especially excited about are oysters Rockefeller (the mollusks baked with buttered spinach and topped with a rock-crab B茅arnaise sauce) and Riley鈥檚 succulent, chilled seafood towers. The latter come in three variations (grand, deluxe and king), with delicacies like halibut ceviche, marinated mussels and clams, freshly shucked oysters and snow-crab legs.
鈥淢y overall vision for Riley鈥檚 has everything to do with exceeding our guests鈥� exceptions from the time they walk in the door to the time they leave,鈥� J茅r么me says. 鈥淚 want them to think of Riley鈥檚 every time they travel to our city. I want them to feel they need to see us if they have a milestone to celebrate in their lives or if they鈥檙e trying to impress their friends or coworkers. My goal is to have our customers planning their next visit before they鈥檝e even had dessert.鈥�
While the chef sources local and seasonal ingredients as much as possible, he concedes that there are exceptions: 鈥淗ow can you turn down an incredible piece of Wagyu beef?鈥� (Try the Wagyu carpaccio bedecked with smoked tomato jam, onion rings, Parmigiano Reggiano and served with chimichurri toast.)
There鈥檚 another part of Riley鈥檚 story that makes it unlike anything else in the city, and that is its wine program. Featuring one of the city鈥檚 largest selections of wines available by the glass, the restaurant has also introduced a new concept here: every single bottle (whether it鈥檚 Burrowing Owl Pinot Gris or Ch芒teau Lafite Rothschild 2010 Pauillac) is listed at wine-store cost plus a $40 to $50 corkage fee, giving people access to some of the world鈥檚 best vintages at prices unheard of in the city鈥檚 dining scene.
鈥淚t will make it the most aggressive wine pricing for white-tablecloth service that Vancouver has ever seen,鈥� J茅r么me says.
Cocktails are another draw. Riley & The Beast is a signature concoction: floral and foamy with Tanqueray Flor de Sevilla gin, St. Germain, rose water and honey lemon, it鈥檚 garnished with a ruby-red wafer of dehydrated raspberry and a diminutive Persian rosebud. Cucumber Pivot, a refreshing if potent mix of Ketel One Cucumber Mint vodka, Aperol honey, sparkling wine and lemon, is Instagrammable with a sprig of thyme hugging the tall glass and attached with the world鈥檚 teeniest clothing pin.
At press time, Riley鈥檚 had just launched, offering dinner service (and live music nightly) and happy hour, with lunch and brunch on the horizon. As for what the future holds, who knows? Only the sea, forests, farms and imaginations are the limit.
鈥淲e鈥檙e going to keep pushing forward and evolving,鈥� J茅r么me says. 鈥淲hat I love most about my work is the adrenaline of service, the anticipation of a busy night, and seeing happy customers enjoying my team鈥檚 hard work.鈥�
Story courtesy of , a Black Press Media publication
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