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A Bite out of the Past: Dublin Coddle

Notes from the Farmhouse
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Dublin Coddle, a stew of sausages, bacon, potatoes and onions is a historically appropriate dish for anyone looking to have a St. Patrick's Day feast.

Sl谩inte everybody, time for another deep dive into my root cellar and culinary history. 

Monday will be St. Patrick鈥檚 Day, which for many is a time to celebrate the 鈥減atron鈥 saint of Ireland (There are four, actually and he wasn鈥檛 one of the original) and a great excuse for everyone to dig into corned beef and cabbage, green beer, or Guinness, and attempt to sing a few Irish folk songs.

We鈥檝e probably all heard the mythology of St. Patrick driving the snakes out of Ireland, how he is a major figure on the Emerald Isle and it鈥檚 a national holiday. Truth is, St. Patrick鈥檚 Day is relatively new as a celebrated holiday and not even Irish in origin. It鈥檚 actually more American and was a P.R. campaign to combat anti-Irish bigotry in the United States. Even the 鈥渢radition鈥 of dining on corned beef and cabbage is very American, likely derived from Irish immigrants co-opting the dish from their Jewish neighbours, as both often ended up in tightly-packed tenements in the eastern States. New York, New Jersey and Massachusetts, to be specific. 

Not to say that meal didn鈥檛 exist in Europe. In fact, 鈥渃orning鈥 beef, or soaking it in a spiced brine was common as a means of preserving and tenderizing a tough cut of meat. The problem is beef was an extravagance few could afford.

So what is there to eat that is likely Irish? 

My usual go-to for a St. Paddy鈥檚 Day feast is economical, rustic and unabashedly Irish: Dublin Coddle. This stew of bacon, sausages, potatoes and onions has a long history in the country, going back at least to the 17th century. Some notes I found on this say it鈥檚 basically Irish stew, but with pork instead of lamb or mutton, it was a favourite of author and essayist Johnathan Swift and there are some theories it goes back as far as the ninth century, being introduced by the Vikings. 

While named after Dublin, this is very much a country dish. Its base ingredients are something more associated with farmers and even urban factory workers: cheap, readily available and could be grown and prepared in-house, sausages and bacon included. It can be quickly assembled and left to slowly cook, or 鈥渃oddle鈥 over a hearth while people are away working. This is reinforced by its other name, black coddle, as ash from a chimney would collect on the surface as it simmered (Mmmmm, extra carbon with my meal.)

Joking aside, this gives me an excuse to do another cellar raid, plus the meats are often something I have buried in my freezer to celebrate the tiny amount of Irish blood I have in me. 

And like Irish stew, there are many variations according to region and tastes, making it a very forgiving dish and you can feed a crowd with this. So if you are planning a party, this is essential to true Irish cuisine.

 

1 lb. bacon (preferably Irish or English-style rashers)

8 pork sausages (I use either English bangers, or breakfast sausages)

4 onions, sliced

1 leek, some green tops included, sliced*

2 bay leaves

2 sprigs fresh thyme

录 C chopped parsley

2 garlic cloves, chopped

6 starchy potatoes, peeled and cut into 2 or 3 chunks

3 cups ham or chicken stock

Black pepper

  • Preheat the broiler to high. Lay the bacon on baking sheets and broil for 7 to 8 minutes, or until just starting to crisp. Drain on paper towels, slice in half widthwise and set aside. Save the fat from the baking sheets.
  • Heat a skillet over medium heat. Add the sausages and cook for about 15 minutes, turning frequently to brown evenly (use a little bacon fat if needed to keep the sausages from sticking.) Once done, remove and slice in half widthwise. 
  • Put the onions in the sausage skillet and cook for about 7 minutes, until soft but not browned, use more bacon fat if needed.
  • Layer the onions, sausages and bacon in the bottom of a stovetop-to-oven-safe casserole dish. Season each layer with pepper. Add the leek, herbs and garlic. Finish with a layer of potatoes. Season with more pepper and pour in the stock. 
  • Preheat the oven to 300 degrees Fahrenheit. Cover the dish and bring to a boil on top of the stove. Place the dish in the oven and cook for about 45 minutes, or until the potatoes are tender. 

To serve: Soda bread to soak up the broth and steak sauce for extra flavour is also traditional. 

 

* Wash the sliced leeks in cold water to shake off any dirt and sand often found in the layers. 

 



Karen McKinley

About the Author: Karen McKinley

Karen McKinley is the reporter and editor for the Grand Forks Gazette.
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